After not upgrading my mobile phone for a couple years, I splurged and got the new iPhone 12 Pro Max (because I wanted the new camera features). The phone is enormous, as you would expect, but you may not believe exactly how enormous it is. If anyone needs to land an aircraft, this thing is about the size of an aircraft carrier deck. Maybe I’m exaggerating a little, but it is big, though my hands are big too, so it feels natural and is a beautiful phone. By the way, the camera does seem to be spectacular, and the low light mode with the “normal” camera blew me away!
But that’s not why I’m writing this. We’ve come to rely on our phones for so many things that upgrading to a new phone is more complicated than it was in the past. Previously when switching to a new iPhone, I would restore the backup of the old phone and most things would work right away. A couple apps would detect they’re on new hardware and require that I log in again, but otherwise there was not transition other than newer, fancier hardware.
These days, however, our phones are not just our lifelines and our entertainment – they identify and authenticate us, and therein lies the problem when upgrading to a new phone. We are all using 2-factor authentication apps (if you’re not, do so. Now. I’ll wait) that are tied to the hardware identity of our phone. Some of us also use our phones for car keys or house keys, again tied to specific IDs in the phone that don’t transfer to a new one automatically.
With this new phone, most things transferred perfectly, as expected, so I could easily log into my iCloud stuff or Dropbox or Instagram, either automatically or just by entering my credentials. The problems were with the “authenticator” apps and with my Tesla Model 3. Rightfully so, they didn’t transfer over.
The Microsoft Authenticator is pretty excellent in that it has a recovery mode that allows restoring its functionality via information stored on iCloud. Luckily my old phone was still working so I could authenticate via the old one to allow the new one to restore the settings. If the old phone were lost or broken, things would have been a lot uglier, requiring the use of backup codes or other methods of proving identity.
The Google Authenticator was much worse. It had no recovery mode, so the answer is just disable the old one in your Google Security settings and enable the new one. Fine for Google, but other services, like Hubspot, also use the Google Authenticator, so for those I had to log in, disable the Google Authenticator, then re-enable it on the new phone. Again, because I had the old phone there, I could log in easily, but if I hadn’t had it accessible, things would have been tough.
The process for switching phones for the Tesla should have been easy, but didn’t work well. Adding the new phone via Bluetooth was trivial and worked well, as did logging into the Tesla app (using Microsoft Authenticator for 2FA), but adding the phone as a key for the car didn’t work. I put the keycard on the console and told the app to make the phone a key, but it claimed it couldn’t connect to the car. Playing with WiFi and Bluetooth didn’t work. In the end, I rebooted the car computer (yes, I know that sounds crazy) and that fixed it.
So now my new phone has replaced the old one in all capacities and I’m happy. But this should serve as a warning to us all that switching phones is more challenging than ever, and if we lose or break a phone, the trouble will be huge! Since many of the backup 2FA mechanisms use a text message to your phone if the authenticator app doesn’t work, that doesn’t help if you can’t receive the text message. My advice is to get the backup codes for your essential services and securely store them somewhere you can get to if your phone is gone. Easier said than done…
